More or less at about 3:00 I wake up soprassalto.Un impressive roar shakes the building from the ground so as to almost think of a terremoto.Ondate heavy drops beat vigorously for the balcony door ajar and the windows while thunder of unprecedented violence, doubled by the echo of rock pinnacles, seems to us to try to collapse on him the whole montagna.Vado the window but I can not see beyond the distance of a palm, blinded by the constant flash of lightning.
I'm going to lie, to open eyes, violet and blue lights that sometimes appear on the ceiling, giving the scene an odd tone, and in some ways irreale.Un po'alla once the storm intensity and haul away the thunder, even if it always rains forte.Il numbness comes over me and I fall again 7:30 am Denis addormentato.Alle braccio.Fuori pull for a time the sun shines and the night is already a distant memory. Usual breakfast
abundant supply of water. Warm greetings and exchanges of phone numbers with the guys at Sandhurst that we will see, at least in these mountains.
smoke a cigarette under a cloudless blue sky and fabulous with the outlines of the mountains that stand out sharp and the green woods and pastures che sembra ancora più rigoglioso.Partiamo alle 8:30 lungo la facile strada bianca,punteggiata di pozzanghere,dove incrociamo ben presto i primi escursionisti del mattino e vediamo un gran numero di mucche al pascolo.Ad una svolta della rotabile,su una fessura tra due massi,c'è una grande ragnatela che ai più sarebbe risultata introvabile.ma non alla Chiara.
Raggiungiamo il passo Duran 1601m where we are going to shelter San Sebastian, as the small Tome closed for a bathroom break and caffèLa wonderful day leads us to blame all calma.Scendiamo along the road paved for a po'sino that, at a bend, it is a great A number rachiuso in a blue triangle that shows us how.
I remain amazed by the stench emanated from the only vehicle that is incrociamo.Possibile took just one week in the mountains to make the smell is so sensitive? And the continuing rhinitis, nose partially closed down at home is almost a constant, what must their cause environmental pollution increasing?
leave clear to take the lead on a path that goes through a dense fir forest with stretches mud to the ankles and big roots slippery beyond words, but cheered by the constant presence of blueberries strawberries and raspberries by the exquisite sapore.Dai 1493m caled the hut we come to the fork Dagarei 1620, below the peaks of the San Sebastian 2486m.Ora trace continues at high altitude, at first in the wood on the ground, then cut all the more open scree at the base of 2547m Tamer, who here appears as a rocky peak, then to graze the walls of the Castle Moschesin 2499m.
It's hot and I start torso just before you reach Laura and Fabrizio, who greets me with a
Moschesin 1800m situated in a delightful place on a green clearing among the pine trees just on the edge of the area of dwarf pines and gravel, with beautiful views of the Pale di San Martino facing each and a copious spring at which we stop and refuel.
There are also five Germans of the previous days with old friends who chat in English.
On the road again along what has every appearance of being an old military trail, judging from the regularity of the slope and turns, where I take my walk in and out very soon all the others, marching one by one even fellow Adventure germanici.Forcella Moschesin 1879m confirmation of my assumptions, with the presence of a fort that now falls to pieces and probably built in the early twentieth century. The place is beautiful with
Gardesana the top of the first 2446m and 2490m Pramper other to enclose an embrace of rock in the valley covered with dwarf pines, which go deep tongues of gravel, and then lower pastures lush flowers and trees of large livestock . Very few trekkers, which makes the rise time and place for a spell to be placed in jealously treasured memories. They come and see the other
Denos and Clare trudge, tired and sudati.Propongo to make a brief digression until the next shelter Sommariva Pramperet 1857m, ruscuotendo generale.Finalmente approval after so many pseudo-hotels, here is a rustic, spartan , with the central body made from a former pasture and dormitories created by restoring the eight-stalle.Sette tables and wooden benches outside, where we sit down to devour a plate of pasta with meat sauce a basket of fragrant bread and a can of coca-cola, to finish with a coffee than once, made with mocha.
Fabrizio us and I smoke a cigarette throughout fiddling with his relax.Vedo Chiara zaino.Tutti three of us T-shirts and socks hung on the outside, as usual, but she also has the shoes, secured with laces knotted dangling fuori.Morale of the fable, for the second time he has lost una.Non unable to comprehend the where and how it happened then, when he resigned now, here come the two Treviso and Philip, with shoes in hand outstretched arm, say
We set off on first flight of a long climb, this is the true "Tappone" of the entire Altavista, with Fabrizio our testa.Guida Alpine, said a steady pace in altitude from 300-350 meters per hour that can never be at all or in oxygen debt. The Laura is a trekker's race, returned from a tour of Mount Viso in eight days and we really love them conosciuti.Attraversiamo cliffs overflowing with mountain pines until you reach the large Portela Piazedel the sheer 2097m, where the track goes on bare rock just a few dappled tuft of grass.
short stop, then I can not stand at my character and all other parties before disconnecting almost immediately, on a path marked not easy to land with boulders, stones and slopes stirred incurred towards Zità 2465m Peaks of the two forks of North and South respectively 2351 and 2448metri, and second I stop to wait, putting the k-way to shelter from a current Air fredda.Li I get chased and joined by Philip and Mark, and while I admire the unmistakable profile of Pelmo, flanked by the crystal and Tofane Sorapiss that close the horizon as a fantastic stage.
I must say that, on paper, they looked like the Belluno Dolomites less attractive part of the course, after the many famous through this massive, and yet ..... Nothing lifts
overcrowding nor roads, nor easily accessible shelters as they should be, that is devoid of any comfort, plenty of wildlife, forks and paths to walk from the hours of so-called civilization, to gain metro.Su meters for all the feeling of being in a poorly known, almost wild, the thrill of being on a really 'AltaVista.
Once the group bunched up, we are now seven, I lay Fabrizio backpack and lit a cigarette and offer a me.Rifiuto also, saying that would be an offense to throw away the butt in this place incontaminato.Lui, smiling, extracts from his pocket a plastic ashtray with snap closure.
jump like mountain goats on the beautiful gravel that opens the Van de Zità de Fora, between the tops of Bachet Talvena 2342m and 2542m, which is striking for its shaped like a molar on the north and rounded with thick streaks grasslands sud.Potrebbe be so at odds with the blue sky, a screensaver on a computer or a mountain in Ireland.
meet only a couple of blocks along the hikers descend into the exciting places so unusual, and in front of us looms the steep group Schiara 2535m in front of it and the sharp green Nerville Peak 2076m.
We see myriads of crows and ravens, a hawk in the long run over our heads, a large buzzard and then a couple of ibex and chamois with a family of small to seguito.Fischi of marmots at almost every step in a process that is now lots of steps, narrow grooves or dug up from the water almost covered by tall grasses, treacherous journey to the caviglie.Il seems to end more, thanks to the tiredness starting to be felt, until finally we see three low buildings and a tall flagpole where the flag waving, surrounded by bright green of un'incassata basin. Some maps shows only the pre-existing camp Dal Mas, and in fact is the recent opening of the refuge Pian de Fontana 1632m, obtained from the central body and from the stables of an old hut.
the 17:00 am when we get there, giving us five each other. Eight and a half hours' walk seasoned for over one thousand meters in altitude and development considerevole.Ci are already a couple, the two girls and German loner, a good hour before we started the morning with i quali scambiamo saluti e strette di mano.
Ho un po' di dolore nei muscoli tra spalle e collo,e depongo lo zaino a terra con sollievo,poi prendo posto assieme agli altri sulle panche all'aperto,bevendo una weissbier fresca.
La soddisfazione per essere giunti sino a qui è grandissima.Otto tappe già fatte e la condizione fisica è ora eccezionale.Dovesse durare un mese,quest'avventura,torneremmo certamente a casa con dei fisici da veri atleti.
Il cielo inizia lentamente ad arrossarsi e le ombre dei monti circostanti si proiettano sempre più lunghe.L'ora del tramonto porta sempre con sè un po'di malinconia,che stavolta si fa sentire in maniera struggente perchè è l'ultima sera.Domani saremo già a casa,nei nostri comodi letti,senza più zaino scarponi fatica,alle prese con la solita quotidiana routine.Scaccio questi pensieri quando vengono a dirci che,se vogliamo,la cena è pronta.
Due lunghe tavolate con panche,il soffitto bassissimo,la zona di preparazione delle pietanze giù in fondo alla stanza,con la cucina economica dei tempi andati a far da regina ed il tubo di scarico,di quelli bianchi smaltati a scanalature circolari,che attraversa tutto l'ambiente per sboccare dalla parte opposta,vicino l'entrata.Il rifugio è gestito da una coppia di trentenni alquanto eterogenea.Lui dal fisico robusto,possente con spalle larghe,di poche parole e nativo della Sardegna;lei piccola minuta raffinata e vicentina.Il fratello di lui,che funge da cameriere and will take decades, is a typical representative of the island, low squat with thick hair and eyebrows linked together, the emphasis which clearly betrays his native language.
order a liter of red wine, dark in the Veneto, which he renamed "morro." Every time we pass by, though in the end we will have four pitchers in seven drinking, constantly repeats the exclamation "die!" sent back to us like an echo, and that causes general hilarity, including Germans. A ration
exaggerated excellent risotto with mushrooms opens the dance, then there is a short pause, which took advantage with Fabrizio for a cigarette.
's cool around us is already almost dark, but it is a sight to see Talvena glowing under the peak of the dying rays of the sun, with the swallows fast crossing in the sky.
We return to the warmth of the crowded hall, but it is fast becoming a sort of cave infernale.Il kitchen exhaust pipe does not roll and soon we are all immersed in a thick acrid wood smoke that makes us cough and tears. are wide open all the windows and then luckily the grill is ready.
Along with the meat and polenta arrived two more jugs of "morro" that if formulation can, and increase the happiness of all the talking.
from complete strangers that we are just a few days together in the mountains for us to become almost fratelli.In Where else are people so warm, friendly and throw themselves without inhibitions forms of social differences, nationality, sex, creed?
I go again with Fabrizio to smoke, the sky now dressed only the colors of the night, then we say goodbye because he and Laura go branda.Dobbiamo taking turns to drink coffee, mocha existing in only one shelter for six, while someone brings up a guitar and we too happy to join my beloved plum canti.Non there and then go with the homemade grappa.
Denis is very tired and wants to go to bed. "You do not know Vicenza drink! Look at that! In Treviso, we are another pasta!" exclaimed Philip, already a po'alticcio. saluta.Mi Denis no replies, and we expect Clare to do the same, but instead she picks up the gauntlet.
We will also become almost brothers, but my pride in Alpine, especially given that the two naja even have seen with binoculars, then there must be difeso.E campanile.Chiamiamo the rivalry of "Morro" and let's bring two bottles of liquor that would sound too much like a brandy define complimento.Sarebbe more accurate to say "torcibudella." vortex glasses is continued, in between jokes and took giro.Io I feel pretty well, collapsed and Marco Filippo is on the right track, but I am surprised and amazed by the view of a girl holding Chiara.Mai così.Verso midnight, the manager kindly invites us to weigh anchor, drawing so the embarrassment of Treviso that are on the verge of collapse, barely speak and leave the room, staggering and holding on to win vicenda.La Chiara cries and shook her hand hard with a big smile.
Outside the door there is "Morro" which is cut tobacco rolled up in a cartina.Appena me see me offers, starting at the same time to prepare for another lui.Fumiamo talking a bit 'and looking at a sky fairy immersed in complete darkness, now you are off even the last light.
I go to bed around one, with only socks because here there are no slippers, taking nearly two crooked fingers of one foot in the darkness, knocking on the wooden stairs that creak alarmingly every passo.Il ceiling is low, consisting of a corrugated metal cross beams anchored on the outer walls, and between a rib and the other there are cracks in which you can easily fit a bed hand. must pull up the blankets up to his face because it is practically like sleeping in the yard.
does not keep lying, I have the uncomfortable feeling that the dance room and turns on itself, so I call my friends and invite them to come out a bit. 'Now they send me to hell, but then resigned to follow.
The thrill of seeing a clear starry night in the mountains is something you wonder every unico.Ci volta.Ci wonder how many galaxies exist, many constellations, for the most part invisible cities due to haze and smog pollution luminoso.Il large and small wagon Bear, Sirius, Vega, Polaris, Orion, Cassiopeia, Andromeda, the Pleiades, Berenice and then thousands, millions, billions with the wonder of white trail that runs like a halo on our galaxy, the good old Milky Way.
From here you can better understand the human ancestral questions .... Who we are, where we come from, where we go .... We are alone in the universe ?.... Do you feel the divinity, whatever that is, closer.
If there is a time when a human being can be moved to tears, I think just in for this at least one of them.
Around 2:30 we go back to his bed, where we fall into a deep sleep.
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