Thursday, July 10, 2008

Kidney Failure And Vision

Monday 9 - FANES HUT / HUT Lagazuòi

At 7:00 o'clock, as usual, on piedi.Pochi moments in the sack-cloth to fix and prepare the backpack and then we are ready to table for a hearty breakfast of tea bread, butter and jam.

The day is a clear accecante.Rifletto that here in the Dolomites time rarely is different from light of full sun or vice versa, an overcast sky with rain hail or snow, depending on the season. There are no fumigants the fog or the cover of a uniform gray opaque so common on our Dolomites, on Pasubio Highlands all exposed AFA rising from the plain overlooked.

po'intontito and I am a legs ached from the past two nights almost without sleep, but I boot firmly on the steep shortcuts which will shortly lead to the next step in the 2172m Limo and its lake, almost a piece of sky fallen on earth by chance.

The color contrasts are almost unique qui.Sopra from the green of the conifers and the languages \u200b\u200bof the mountain pines that go along the landslide of white gravel ridges of the moon, here are the pillars and ridges of the mountain gray-pink Sella Fanes 2665m, the polished silver plates of Sas Diesc dle 3023m and 2967m Nu Sas dle, then the air concentric ledges of Mount Blanc Vallon 2688m to the south, and the land around us in alternating thin tufts of grass and clear boulders scattered everywhere, in the midst of which runs the white road that we walk on.

The charm and fascination of the environment is something unique and not so hard to understand why the handing down from one generation to another in a series of legends, the saga of the gnomes-fanes to that of the king or queen of Britain Marmot.

while Mirko comes at a good pace after a short distance from the hunched shoulders above Alfredo Tecio, Bossi, chef and girlfriend and then the Lodi Stefano Giacinta.Ci and greet you with warmth and backslapping to jointly devise Once the pasture Fanes Grande 2104m where the junction, making way through the cows, take the stock right from the bottom at times while erboso.Facciamo chat with Dominic, who gives us the appointment of the French Alps for the next summer and, after some modest off, opens before us the wide green valley of the Grand Plan by the EGA on which a herd of grazing peacefully a hundred horses from avellegnesi blonde mane .

The Chiara is armed with a camera and he enjoys a good quarter of an hour between the horses, while Denis and I, we enjoy the warm sun soon tempered by some gust of fresh air sitting on a large rock.

begin the hard climb from rock and gravel Saltini tight coils, while I was a little 'time to reach extension and some small group of German and then the guys at Sandhurst, to finally reach the Forcella del Lago 2480m squeezed between the towers of Scotoni 2874m Cima and Cima del Lago 2650m.Un little 'time to reach all other menttre breath I take back and change the wet t-shirt Mirko sweat and talks quietly as if he were sitting at a table in the bar.Qualche group photo, with smiles and jokes abound, and it is time to forgive him and start backpacking.

The shadows and highlights have a sharp cut, postcard, and the temperature is very different in the two respective parti.Mi around back at the pale green of the pastures and the dark down the mountain pines the Plan by the Ega topped ridges and surrounded by bare Conturines one hand and those of other peaks Fanes. We are moving down the narrow cleft delimited by vertical walls, where the blue is very striking Lech de Lagazuoi in full sun, in contrast to the gloom of the narrow winding noi.Una where we step out of this sort of portal giants, the path cuts through the extensive scree at the base of Peak Scotoni, the scene of a historic first ascent in the early fifties by Lino Lacedelli Squirrels Bibi Ghedina and Guido Lorenzi, and then continue to the barren limestone plateau that slopes down from Little Lagazuoi.

A short break to eat a can of honey and drink a few sips of water and then su,con gli occhiali da sole ben calcati sul naso per proteggerci dal riverbero della roccia chiara.Si sale ognuno con il proprio passo e,al solito Mirko già sparito davanti,mi fa compagnia l'ammirevole Stefano che porta il fardello di uno zaino da diciotto kg e suda come una fontana,in questo ben imitato da me.Mi viene da ridere pensando che come indumenti ho un paio di pantaloncini ed una t-shirt smanicata completamente bianchi,mentre Denis ha pantaloni lunghi,camicia sopra la maglietta,una t-shirt di traverso sulla pancia tenuta su da un voluminoso marsupio e,per finire,berrettino con ampia fronte e fazzoletto sostenuto non so come a protezione della nuca,stile Legione Straniera.

L'ascesa dai 2180m del laghetto is hard, with cracks and rocks to climb over to get around, but the sight of the walls facing each, forming almost an immense wall of the great rewards Great Lagazuoi 2804m of the 2571m sforzo.Alla Fork Lagazuoi crossed the path that goes from the fork Travenanzes and begin to appear almost everywhere the signs to the galleries and the works of war, recently recovered, Italian and Austro-Hungarian Guerra.Finalmente the Great, after so much natural beauty, even a bit of historical attractions and the union of them, the mountains, for me the most.

I look up and see a part of the structure of the shelter and the great arrival station of the cable car that reaches by Falzarego, while crowds of walkers of all kinds are rising, but mostly down the narrow gravel terminal coils of the mountain.

There are many people in sneakers but a couple, for the place rather bizarre, attracts attenzione.Lei my handbag in stylish dress and knee boots with a little heel in his impeccable gray suit complete with shirt, tie and shiny shoes from the sole of cuoio.Procedono downhill, twisting, sliding in each half step, while the woman's cries become more acute at times when they both sat down and plunge their hands continuously fanning the indumenti.Vita dust from the VIP of Cortina in search of excitement to tell the night in some luxury suites or the local moda.Io and Stephen could not hold back the laughter.

Mirko Let's go racing to go down well beyond the fork to take the backpack of someone suio companions in trouble, what they will do for three times, with agility of a true two-suede foot on zampe.Metto 'large plank of wood that forms the terrace of the hut Lagazuoi 2728m, half of the day, when it is noon, then we sit down with Stephen at a table sipping a Coke and wait for the other media who arrive in dribs and drabs, including Milan's friends and those worried about a scandinavi.Mi po'quando see the pallor of the faces of Denis and Chiara arriving very late and somewhat provati.Lei says it's just tired and suffers from blocked intestine, while he bleeds from a forearm and swears like a marinaio.Mi explains that a woman who was generous in size down to a point she tripped and fall, taking the sharp pointed straight ahead trekking poles, and as confirmation makes me see the big carrier that has been his salvation, and nearly doubled up with a big hole in the middle. I say, patting his shoulder.

we enter with difficulty in the crowded building, where we are given two large room at lower ground floor, turn and wash away dust and sweat in the two showers gettone.Stavolta I spout the last remaining slippers, canvas pink ladies complete with pom-pon, enduring the mockery of all for a good couple of hours, but with them being able to get to the cross a few hundred yards away, over rough terrain roccia.Anche crowd of naked there and then return here on the terrace, where we love to teach Olaf object names translated from English to veneto.Lui is very receptive, and end of an hour or so doth a long series of nouns in the dialect of Vicenza narrow between the eyes of the stunned Italian tourists and our laughter.

At 17:30 the last bus down the cable car then a silence fell, the place takes on the magical connotations for cui è giustamente divenuto celebre.Mi isolo per un po'dagli altri e torno alla croce sedendomi sulla piccola panca lignea alla sua base,con addosso il giubbetto della tuta da ginnastica con il bavero rialzato per ripararmi da folate di vento freddo.Sono solo 34m più in alto del rifugio,ma da questo punto la vista spazia a 360gradi e,sebbene inizino ad apparire alcune velature serali nel cielo,lo spettacolo è da mozzare letteralmente il respiro.Proprio sotto i miei piedi parte il Kaiserjagerweg diretto al passoValparola 2168m a lato del quale appare ancora il forte Tre Sassi,ora restaurato ed adibito a museo della Grande Guerra.Un conflitto che in questi luoghi ha scritto pagine indelebili,con il Lagazuoi divenuto una sorta di condominio,gli Italiani in basso Imperial and above, from May 1915 to November 1917.L 'whole mountain is pierced by tunnels and trenches and crossed by paths, all recently recovered in a collaborative project between several European countries.

Towards the west, the grassy top of the Col di Lana, almost insignificant when compared to great heights around, but the sacred name for the tragic events that took place and culminated in the explosion of the big mine that changed forever the profile and led to the conquest italiana.Sulla right of it and check the Sassongher guess the wake of the green valley Badia.Giro eyes and I take the Marmolada glacier 3334m now somewhat retired but still the greatest of all the Dolomites, then south, behind the tower dell'Averau 2649m and the flat top of Nuvolau 2575m, stands the majestic north face of the Civetta unmistakable 3223m and to the left of this raises the rocky pillars "Caregon of the Lord", Pelmo 3168m.Più advanced towards me here is the bare slope, and the precipitous wall of slabs of Formin and just behind the jagged skyline of the Croda da Lago 2715m, then south-east of the summit 3264m Antelao perfect opening the chain of Marmarole, dominated by the ramparts of Sorapiss 3205m, looming on the beautiful valley and Val Ampezzo Boite

But the vision that remains imprinted in my mind is that most of the nearby Tofane group, with the peaks of those inside and Means connected by a sharp fork and the vertiginous walls of the majestic pyramid Rozes 3225m, at whose feet lies the curious Castelletto pierced by a large gallery and the scene of bloody epic deeds, to close the series of Dante's beauty.

I get back and walked towards the terrace of the hut groping and cursing for the sharp stones that I almost stick to the feet through the thin soles of slippers thinly, just as all the others are ready for dinner. The veranda of the dining-room allows you to take every indescribable hue enrosadira on nearby mountain ranges, while the cheerful rooms tone between dumplings, goulash, cheese, mushrooms, polenta and several glasses of wine rosso.Non miss a slice of blueberry pie, then what could be better, since we are definitely back in the Veneto, a small glass of my lovely plum?

As shelter Biella, since we are all together including Milan Fabrizio and Laura, down a barrage of songs interspersed with alpine grapnels trays and plums, while the party moves on the terrace where some of us come on a cigarette and my own supply suffers a severe siege by the Germans especially norvegesi.Molti, while not understanding a word of any song, join us to show the vigor their throat and their stomachs, always kept well watered by foaming mugs of birra.Mancano only Treviso and Marco Filippo, who chose the classic route variants dell'Altavia. Marianne asks me in English another cigarette unleashing a grin, and I give it to him willingly loses itself in its occhi.Tanto the next day it will surely find one of the many souvenir shops near the Falzarego, I think wrongly.

The Clear, very pale, and Denis are to see me because they go to sleep, while I am departing a po'dagli other and I lean on the railing of the balcony to smoke the last cigarette in relaxation and disposing po'i alcohol fumes.

Countless dots pulsate in time clear, and the faint moonlight, the outlines of the mountains almost merge with the black notte.I headlights move up the hairpin bends that lead to Falzarego, 600 meters below me, where I see some lights while the lights appear yellow and white Cortina lanterns lying there in his valley, almost the only noticeable sign of civilization along with the one lonely light that reach the shelter Nuvolau guess.

I shake his hand warmly and Stefano the Jacinta that tomorrow will take the path of a variant in the middle the Tofane and that this will inevitably be a day late in all the remaining stages.

Today's considered it hard with its 1200m of altitude, but I must say that has slipped away almost painlessly, in just four hours.

At 23:00 I go to bed and this time I enjoy a deep sleep almost continuously, which allows me to recover all the energy.

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